Pattern review- Yoshiko Tsukiori- Stylish Dress Book- ‘pattern T’

 trouble I had unimaginable problems with this dress. It was only dogged determination that kept it out of the garbage because I refused to be beaten ……mostly because I loved the fabric,  the style and especially because I love the rest of the patterns in the book. I wanted it to work…it had to work!

At the end of the day I arrived at the conclusion that this was a ‘fitting  me’ issue, not a pattern issue. And I think this is probably the first time in my sewing career that I have actually confronted my ineptitude at making the necessary adjustments to get the fit right. Not laziness on my part, just plain ignorance – I have never really understood how to fit properly. And that’s probably another reason why I duck and weave around the toile. I mean, what’s the point of making a muslin when you don’t know how to fix the fit anyway?

Although my daughter is modelling the dress, it was made to fit me (it is bulldog clipped at the back). So disregard the fact that it looks a little big on her.

The Book– I found this book at The Fabric Store in Sydney and fell in love with it. I asked the girls in the shop if they had ever used the patterns. They had not but said they’d heard some pretty good things about it. That was enough for me. I have the utmost faith in those sales assistants. Every thing they have ever told me has turned out to be sewing or fabric doctrine! At $30 for a book of 35 patterns it was definitely worth a shot. I’ve already had more than $30 worth of entertainment just looking at the pictures.

Drafting the pattern- This was the point at which the book became a whole lot less attractive! There are 6 pattern sheets and the pattern pieces for this dress were spread over 4 (I think) of the sheets. I had to do a bit of digging to find them and when I did find them, I had to really squint and concentrate hard- the line drawings are superimposed over each other and it looks a bit like a very complicated topographic map. But I did manage to trace off the pattern eventually ……(using small sheets of baking paper sticky taped together- a ridiculously painful way to do it …but the shops were closed and I wanted to start!)

Seam allowance- There is no seam allowance included in the pattern. This is not a problem if you have your wits about you. I ended up cutting out two bodices (4 pieces altogether). I forgot the seam allowance the first time, 

 

Construction – My fitting issues aside,  the pieces of this dress came together like a dream. I would have to give this pattern 20 out of 10 for accuracy. In all my years of sewing, never have I experienced a garment coming together so well.

Instructions- very brief but I was fine with that. There is quite a bit of knowledge ‘assumed’. And I think that’s a good thing….cuts down on unnecessary detail.  The diagrams were excellent and clear.

Fabric- A beautiful ash linen from The Fabric Store contrasted with a white linen I had at home.

Fitting issues –All things considered, this was a good exercise. I learnt a lot. If you look at the white contrast around the neck and compare it with this image, you will see there is quite a big difference between the two.

The black contrast in the above image is much longer than the white in mine. This is because the first version  of my dress gaped by about 2 inches on each side. I don’t really understand why but correcting it was some challenge. Like I said, I was determined and eventually I managed to get the neckline to sit flush on my chest, but only after I made major changes to the actual curve of the neckline. Interestingly, the fitting issues did not stop there. Given that I am larger on my left side than my right, the curves on both sides of the neckline are different. But this is not noticeable to the naked eye. In hindsight, I should have addressed the problem via the shoulder seam…..live and learn. If my mother was around she would have said, “Jane, I would never tackle a dress with that neckline. It will be very difficult to fit.”  Mum is right again.

Now that the dress is done and dusted, I am thrilled with it. It is beautifully comfortable and matches my boots perfectly! It will be a great ‘in between seasons’ addition to my completely over stuffed wardrobe.  And I can’t wait to do the next Yoshiko Tsukiori…….with a different neckline.

Enjoy the rest of your week.

 

Jane

 

Peanut Butter Linen

When I first saw this fabric at Spotlight, I was betwixt and between about the colour. There was something about it that reminded me of old men’s trousers that are  out of date- not sure where that comes from. But as it was 30% off  (and 100% linen) I decided to get it anyway.  Then, when I got it to the counter the sales assistants raved over the colour  (even though there was heaps left on the shelf…..good sales people!). And I fell into the trap and bought a whole lot more, of course. Anyway, I looked at it at every red light on the way home, and by the time I got there, I’d decided I loved it. But I had to lose the ‘old men’s trousers’ image. I moved to peanut butter……..which I love. Far more appropriate.

 

I have grown to absolutely love this dress. The linen is beautifully soft and the dress  is so comfortable to wear.  I have actually lived in it over the last couple of weeks.

I used the Muumuu pattern again but cut the skirt a little narrower this time…..less bulk over the bust. I also made the shoulders wider and the neck, less ‘boat’ which made the dress more bra friendly overall.

The pockets- Now this is an easy pattern, make no mistake. But seriously, lining up those pockets was no mean feat. Button holes aside (which I could have omitted…the dress fits over my head), I spent more time getting those pockets level with each other than I spent on the rest of the dress! Next time I’ll have one only! On the pockets score, my friend Wendy taught me a very simple technique that I suspect I am going to thrash.

See the trim? I cut a strip of linen 2.5 inches wide, on the bias, and put it through the washing machine. It comes out frayed but apparently will not fray any further because of the bias cut. I just love it. I have seen that effect many times and always loved it but didn’t know how to do it.

The hem- This is the ‘Jane‘ technique…(feel free to copy!!). I turned the hem to the right side to measure it and decided to leave it that way. I liked it and so have sewn a couple of rows of stitching to prevent it fraying too much. I think it’s a good fit with Wendy’s pocket trim.

The buttonholes- mercy- not going there. I am unbelievably abysmal at them. Imagine my heart break when the dress went over my head without undoing them! But the buttons are lovely- little wooden ones.

I am thrilled with this dress and would recommend this pattern….even though the instructions for the bodice are very odd….I didn’t get them at all…must be a 60s technique .

Have a good week.

The Muumuu- a tribute to my mother

Mum loved the muumuu. She adored the simplicity and  style of it. Not in a ‘you can hide everything under it’ sort of way but out of a deep respect for what she saw as clean, stylish lines . She loved the boxiness and symmetry. To her, the muumuu was a welcome departure from the figure hugging, curvy styles of the 50s. She didn’t do ‘figure hugging’. And thinking back, it’s a wonder because she had a tiny little waist.  Figure hugging styles would have loved her. But she didn’t love them back.  She hated 40s and 50s fashion, adored Twiggy and embraced the 60s with a passion!

The dictionary defines the muumuu as a long, loose-hanging dress, usually brightly colored or patterned, worn especially by Hawaiian women. Something like this

This was never what Mum had in mind.She wasn’t one bit interested in Polynesian prints.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

No. Mum’s idea of a ‘smart’ dress was something understated and uncluttered. She usually chose a solid colour…….but never a bold tone. Now when I found this pattern on Etsy at BessieandMaive (and on instagram @bessieandmaive), I finally got Mum’s penchant  for muumuus. I just loved the simplicity of the style and yes, the clean lines. I don’t know  whether it was deja vu (I’m sure this is the actual pattern that mum used for me) or whether I  have finally found a little joy in 60s. style. You see, personally I’m a 40’s and 50’s girl…..I think.

But this? I love it! So full of potential! So many possible variations. And unlike Mum, I LOVE the big florals. I think this pattern has got black and white Marimekko written all over it. Not to mention polka dots!

In my inimitable fashion I opted for linen to put my own stamp on the muumuu. Blue ice no less, which I couldn’t leave Tessuti  without (www.tessuti.com.au; Tessuiti.blogspot.com).  This would have to be one of my all time favourite colours. I love white and I love bright. But I am a sucker for pastels in ice shades.

The dress was, as the pattern says, simple to make. I omitted the frill from the hemline as it was just one frill too many for me. I made the sleeves according to the pattern and enjoyed working on the detailed finish. It sewed beautifully in the linen.

The bodice was lined and I also lined the skirt because the blue is so pale……had the potential to be see through.

When I had completely finished the dress I unpicked the sleeves and reinserted them (what a pain!!!). The dress was just a little too  wide at the shoulders. I also cut 1 1/2 ins off the hemline as it all just felt a bit enveloping…….and looked a bit frumpy.

The back is finished with tiny pearl buttons…which was no mean feat for me. Regrettably I am no buttonhole expert….and that is putting it mildly.

Overall, I am pleased with the dress and I think Mum would be thrilled to see me in a muumuu. I also think this dress qualifies as a contender for the vintage sewing pledge. I haven’t actually pledged anything yet but I intend to. Incidentally, my machine has been out of action ……being serviced. So I made this whole garment (and others) on a $99 spare! and I was very pleased with the results. It does a lovely zig zag. And because there wasn’t a huge amount of difference between the cheapie and my own machine, I got to wondering about the virtues of an expensive fancy model? I am however happy to be persuaded otherwise. I would kill for a top of the range machine.

Have a good weekend!

 

 

 

Tessuti Navy & Lime Linen Ola

This is the Ola modified to a short sleeved top. The fact that there is less fabric in my modified Ola is a plus for me. I absolutely love the Tessuti patterns but I think my body shape is such that I need a bit more flesh showing…….lest I should look completely eaten alive  by the garment! Short sleeves are also cooler for me.

I don’t think I modified the pattern in a technically  kosher fashion…I just turned up the pattern sleeves…fairly inaccurately. But it turned out ok just the same.

Now, the colours. I read in someone’s blog once that the natural shades are more attractive but that colours are more fun to sew with. I couldn’t agree more! I love experimenting with colour…all colours and mixing and matching  different shades is so much fun. I don’t know that the naturals are necessarily more attractive all the time…..that’s a fairly big generalisation. But I would have to agree that somehow, where clothes are concerned, I have more success with the understated tones even though I don’t think they necessarily suit me. And I also sell far more cushions in muted or natural tones than I do in the beautiful bold shades. And that’s the beauty of quilting and other crafts…..you can do whatever  you like with colours. The sky’s the limit.

So back to the top. Tessuti has the most unbelievably beautiful selection of linens. The colours are exquisite and I have been eyeing off this lime for weeks. I would have loved a dress in it but thought I might look like I’d been swallowed by a caterpillar so I resisted the urge. In this combination you’ll see I have carefully positioned the lime away from the face. Navy and white are my colours but the lime is a bit harsh….particularly this shade.

Now you’ve got to hand it to Tessuti for this method of sewing on binding. The handmade binding is sewn right side facing the wrong side of the neckline. After the excess fabric has been trimmed, the binding is turned to the right side of the neckline and stitched in place. A second row of stitching on the neck edge of the binding, completes the neck edge. It gives a beautiful finish.

Speaking of binding, I bought this little gizmo on the weekend. It’s  a binding maker.

I’m not exactly sure how it’s supposed to work but if the rave reviews from the sales assistant are anything to go by I expect it do everything besides wear the outfit! I hope it’s as good as it’s  cracked up to be…….I hate making bias binding but I love the look of it. I will keep you posted.

 

Have a good week!!!!